Europe Trips: Italy: An Italian Sojourn Part 3

Rome is one of the most ancient cities in Europe. Rome’s history spans more than two and a half thousand years ago – since its founding.Having served as a capital of the erstwhile Roman Kingdom and the birthplace of the Western Civilization, today it serves as the capital of Italy. Rome is one of the most visited cities in the world today – thanks to the rich history, Renaissance architecture, sculptures, buildings, paintings from artists like Michaelangelo, Raphael and others. The Vatican City being in Rome has further boosted Rome’s prominence.

One can cover the following interesting places in Rome on a given day:

Old Rome: This includes the Colosseum, Palatine Hill and Fora Romano or Roman Forums. All these three historic sites are located close to each other. Hence if you plan to reach Colosseo Metro Station (on Line B of Rome Metro) by 9 am, be rest assured that till 1.00 pm – you can cover all these three comfortably. More importantly – visit to these 3 is covered on the same ticket. You can book these tickets online and hence “skip the lines”.

A. Colosseum: The Colosseum was once the world’s largest amphitheatre. This elliptical structure has been one of the largest that had been built in the Roman Empire and is a standing testimony of marvels of Roman architecture and engineering.It was capable of seating around 50,000 spectators and could have been like an IMAX experience during those times. An important tip is to watch the Colosseum not only during daylight – but at night as well (of course from the outside). It looks stunning under the lights. Colosseum looks equally spectacular from the inside. Walk around the structure on the inside and also from the outside along the road. Some of the cafes outside serve good Italian food and house wine – though a tad expensive, worth the experience as you get to watch the colosseum from your restaurant window as you dig into your pasta and risotto’s!

B. Palatine Hill: Palatine, the centremost of the seven hills of Rome is the birth place of Rome. The word “Palatine” is also etymological origin of the word “palace” that we use today. Palatine Hill has seen some of the famous residents like Romulus, Hercules, Augustus, Julius Ceaser and other Roman emperors. You definitely are visiting a place which is as ancient as the human civilization that is well documented perhaps. Though you may see the Palatine Hills and Roman Forums as ruins from the past, do remember that these two great sites were plundered for years to build various churches, basilica’s and other important monuments in Rome and all over Western Europe.

C. Roman Forum: Roman Forum – located just below the Palatine Hill was the erstwhile city centre / downtown of the Roman Empire. It used to house all the important government buildings and stood testimony to all the important events like public speeches, criminal trial, gladiatorial matches etc. The teeming heart of ancient Rome, it has been called the most celebrated meeting place in the world, and in all history. Some of the surviving structures include Tabularium, Gemonian stairs, Temple of Saturn, Temple of Vespasian and Titus, Arch of Septimius Severus, Curia Julia, Rostra, Basilica Aemilia, Forum Main Square, Basilica Iulia, Temple of Caesar, Regia, Temple of Castor and Pollux, Temple of Vesta.

Post a sumptuous lunch, you can proceed to visit the Pantheon, which is another architectural and historical marvel in Rome.

D. Pantheon: Pantheon - built in 126 AD and one of the best preserved buildings in Rome. It has been in continuous use throughout its history, and since the 7th century!It was built as a temple to all gods. Raphael's (one of the holy trinity of Michaelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci) mortal remains rest in the Pantheon as well. The Pantheon was a very rich monument once - but has been looted to build other monuments. The Baldacchino of St Peters Basilica got most of its bronze from the Pantheon.

Pantheon's dome from inside – also called the occulus is open to the sky to help the visitors see heaven from inside. Almost two thousand years after it was built, the Pantheon's dome is still the world's largest unre-inforced concrete dome! Be it sun, rain, snow or wind - it continues to pour down the dome onto the Pantheon - since it was built - over 2000 years ago.

E. Piazza de Spagna/ Spanish Steps: The Spanish Steps are a set of steps in Rome, Italy, climbing a steep slope between the Piazza di Spagna at the base and Piazza Trinità dei Monti, dominated by the Trinità dei Monti church at the top. The Scalinata is the widest staircase in Europe. It also has a baroque fountain at its base called as the Fontana della Barcaccia ("Fountain of the ugly Boat").

Fountains: Once you have covered the above, you would have more or less covered the most important buildings of ancient Rome. You can now walk from the Pantheon to other places of your interest. A worthy thing to do is to visit fountains – as Rome is the city of fountains and home to some of the best fountains. Some of the notable fountains to visit include:

A. Trevi Fountain in Rome is one of the largest fountains in Italy and the most famous in the world. Legend has it that if you toss a coin into the fountain, you will return to Rome again. With a vast treasure of history, culture, architecture and colors - who wouldn't miss the opportunity to toss a coin to return to the city of Rome-ance?

B. Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi or "Fountain of the Four Rivers": This fountain represents the four major rivers of the four continents through which papal authority had spread: the Nile representing Africa, the Danube representing Europe, the Ganges representing Asia, and the Río de la Plata representing the Americas

C. Turtle Fountain (Fontana delle Tartarughe) at the Jewish Ghetto. One of the quiet charming fountains - looks spectacular with the background buildings and their lights at Piazza Mattei

D. Fontana del Nettuno at Piazza Navona in Rome. This fountain is also known as the Neptune Fountain

Finally if your legs did not give in to the walks in and around Rome, enjoying the architecture, buildings, vivid colors – it is worthwhile to visit the Jewish Ghettos. The Jewish Ghetto is one of Rome's most charming and eclectic neighborhoods. Walk past this place and be a part of some rich history. 

After having absorbed a lot of ancient Rome, a nice walk to unwind. You will be surprised to find a lot of old architectural buildings around this areas well – which you wouldn’t have expected. For example we saw a mini-colosseum, which upon further research on the internet was found to be Theatre of Marcellus, built in 13 BC and inaugurated by Augustus. At the theatre, locals and visitors alike were able to watch performances of drama and song.This looks stunning at night and almost passes off as a mini colosseum!

Another example is as we walked past Campo de' Fiori or Field of Flowers that can be very eye pleasing. There are lot of flower shows and other small shops in this square. You can pass through it taking a pit stop for photo enroute to Piazza Novona, Jewish Ghetto or other places.

As shown in the pics below, Rome has such beauty hidden all over her that only an inquisitive and explorer like attitude can help a tourist enjoy this beauty! And while you do this - don't forget to have that odd gelato or a nice cappucino while you enjoy Rome on feet!

Europe Trips: Italy: An Italian Sojourn Part 2

Vatican City, Sistine Chapel
Vatican City is the world’s smallest independent state! With an area of approximately 110 acres and 800 people – it absolutely has to be! Italy in fact is one of those countries which have 2 smallest countries in the world – Vatican City and San Marco. You will know you are in Vatican City by seeing the walls around the city. The Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica are all inside the boundaries of this Roman wall.

Roman walls around Vatican City

One can stay in Roma Central (near Termini station – the central station in Rome) and plan to travel to visit Vatican and old Rome easily. We took the Metro Line A (heading towards Battistini) to go to the Vatican and got off at Cipro Musei Vaticani. From Cipro station, its about 10 minutes walk to the Vatican Museums.

The first place was Vatican Museum – one of world’s greatest museums, since they display great works of art built over centuries in the form of paintings, sculptures and other forms. With stalwarts like Michaelangelo and Raphael putting their life’s best efforts to paint frescoes and “The Last Judgement”, this museum will leave even the most naive art follower spell bound.

If I compare visiting the Vatican Museum to the other great museum – The Louvre, in France, I would rate visiting the Vatican Museum less tiresome  – though its much more bigger than Louvre. This is because visiting the entire Vatican is like walking on a train. You can walk from the engine to the rear of the train via the compartments and vestibules – one after the other in a sequence – you have no other option. In Louvre – a lot of times you enter a specific segment or area and you need to walk in, walk back on the same path and then search a different segment to explore. So your legs ache, camera battery cries as you see the same things again as you walk back to your starting point.

Enjoy the art by walking

We had not opted for the “Roma Pass”, but chose to book tickets to Vatican Museum online. It was a breeze to collect actual tickets, take an audio guide (believe me it enriches your experience further) and start our tour. We would have spent a tad over 3 hours in the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel and along all this time – were totally in submission to the intricacies of the masters who have created these museums.

Ceiling Frescoes

Gallery of Maps

Some of the very interesting works we liked were – Gallery of Maps, Paintings by Caravaggio, Stanze di Raffaello ("Raphael's rooms"), the various frescoes in display and more importantly –Sistine Chapel with Michaelangelo’s ceiling frescoes really enriching the experience. “The Last Judgement” on the altar wall of the Sistine Chapel – again by Michaelangelo will blow your mind away. There was so much of artistic richness and grandeur during the Renaissance period brought about by the trinity of Michaelangelo, Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci. It pains to see that our current generation has succumbed to be entrapped by the Television, Table computer, Mobile phone and other vices that probably stops us from choosing a hobby and pursuing it with blood and sweat!

Paintings on Raphael's rooms

Don’t also miss “The Last Supper” – a woven carpet depicting the same. This is the near perfect replica of the original painting, which is in Milan. You should spend sometime soaking it in. 

The Last Supper

If you still have energy and enthusiasm to absorb more of the art and history – do visit the Pinacoteca Vaticana – which is an art gallery with very nice paintings including one of Adam and Eve in Garden of Eden by Peter Wenzel– which has more than 200 animals in the painting – all drawn to the perfect detail and depth and would seem as if the painting would come to life with a passing breeze.

Adam and Eve by Peter Wenzel

In addition visit the Museo Pio Cristiano in the Vatican Museum – which gives a lot of sculptures and artefacts excavated in Rome. A lot of the remains are also of ancient Greeks probably.

At Museo Pio Cristiano

Once you are through the Vatican Museums, you will be rewarded with a visit to Sistine Chapel – which is just before the exit of the Vatican Museums. Do ensure to spend sometime in silence without your camera adoring the beautiful chapel and the works of art on its walls and ceiling. Apart from the works by Michaelangelo and Raphael – also note the walls – which have pictorial depictions of the Stories of Moses, Stories of Jesus, Resurrection of Christ.

There are enough cafe’s inside the Vatican Museums for you to try some Pizza, Crepe or other items on the menu – and yes in Italy, you will never be short of Vegetarian options!

And as you walk out of the Vatican Museum, climb down the set of stairs as shown below. These were designed by Giuseppe Momo in 1932. These are one of the most photographed in the world, and certainty one of the most beautiful. The broad steps are somewhere between a ramp and a staircase.The stairs are actually two separate helixes, one leading up and the other leading down, that twist together in a double helix formation. Little did the Vatican Museum know in 1932 that this formation would come to represent life itself, with the discovery of the double helical DNA strand.

Spiral Staircase Vatican Museum

St. Peter’s Basilica

Panorama of St Peters Basilica 

The Saint Peter's Basilica, is a Late Renaissance church located within Vatican City.It is one of the most famous pieces of work of Renaissance Architecture and is one of the largest churches in the world.It is one of the holiest Catholic sites and famous for pilgrimage for a lot of Catholics from around the world.The Saint Peter's Basilica is not only mesmerising from the outside - but when you head inside, you will loose yourself in its glory, brilliant serenity. Spend atleast an hour or two inside (if not more) soaking in each section of this marvel. Michaelangelo's original sculpture of "Pieta" - where Mary holds the body of Jesus after crucification.

Michaelangelo's Pieta

Also, don't miss Bernini's baldacchino, a pavilion-like structure 30 metres (98 ft) tall and claimed to be the largest piece of bronze in the world. This is right before the Papal Altar in the sanctum Sanctorum - black in color. My reading indicates, the bronze for making this baldacchino was taken from the Pantheon - another beautiful building in ancient Rome.

Baldacchino and Papal Alter

The dome at St Peters Basilica

Try to see every aspect of St Peters Basilica- the long walls, high ceilings, the frescoes, paintings - everything has been done perfectly to the tiniest of detail.

We had visited the Vatican and St. Peter's Basilica on Feb 28th 2013, and were one of the privileged to be near the Pope Benedict XVI on his last day on the job. We saw him on wide screen (though he was hardly 800 meters away from us) and waved him goodbye with the huge crowd as his helicopter flew above us. A divine experience for sure!

The Pope, before bidding his final adieu

All of us waving bye to helicopter carrying Pope

Please spend 4-5 hours in Vatican City - it will be an enriching experience. Post that in the evening you can plan to visit one of the fountains (we had visited Trevi Fountain), see Colosseum at night (it looks brilliant!) or walk around Rome.

They say - Rome was not built in a day and i am sure you will not regret this one day in Rome - especially the Vatican City.

Post your prayers?

Vatican Museum - interesting paintings on dome

Entombment of Christ by Caravaggio

Europe Trips: Italy: An Italian Sojourn Part 1

Europe is one of the most beautiful continents in the world – spanning multiple countries with rich culture, history, scenic landscapes, architecture, paintings, sculptures, sun, snow, sand, party and pristine blue waters. It can manage to emote even the most un communicate of human beings to gasp in its glory.

Since the continent has over 49 countries, it is a boon in disguise for various travel & tour operators – in addition to the economies of these countries. The travel and tour operators take one through either a multiple country trip – 10 countries in 7 days or single country trip - France in 5 days. Though these trips are well planned and work out economical (since you travel by coach/bus, are in a group – which gives benefits of collective bargaining) – they still don’t do enough justice to these countries.  This is because of a jam packed pre determined tour schedule for which you have to be regimentally on time each day – to ensure you cover the areas identified for you by the tour operator are ticked off the list. If there is some place you may not want to spend more time and focus elsewhere, the changes of flexibility are limited.  The other option to visit these countries is more painstaking and may work out a tad more expensive, but nevertheless more fulfilling – planning it by yourself.

Frecciargento trains - fastest in Italy - clocking 250kmp

I am a game for the latter as it gives you more satisfaction in the end – of having experienced a foreign country the way you want it to. I am glad my wife is a willing partner in crime! Be it spending time in attractions which you like, experiencing different food & drinks or soaking in non touristy sections of the city – you can design your own plan and execute it. One of such trips we planned was for Italy and it was absolutely breathtaking and enchanting.

In over 5 days  and 6 nights we covered 5 cities across Italy, travelling from the South to the North of this vibrant country. We took all possible modes of transport in this process – Flights (to and from Italy), Trains (Intra Italy), Bus (Intra Italy), Metro (Intra Rome), Vaporetti / Water Bus (Intra Venice), Gondola (Intra Venice), Train (Intra UK) and Bus (Intra UK).

Within Italy, we took high speed trains – travelling over 650 kms of the country in one day – when we were in four different cities on the same day – Rome, Pisa, Florence and Venice. Not to mention the numerous kilometres we walked within each of these cities to explore sight- seeing places and enjoy our trips.

Food wise, it was fantastic to taste the following:

Gelato - waiting for your mouth!

Lunch/Dinner:

Pizza, Pasta, Risotto, Bruchetta, Soup, Grilled Vegetables, Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Pie, Panini’s

Drinks:

Freshly squeezed orange /arancia juice, Apertif (Spritz), House Wine in numerous restaurants, Warm wine roaming the streets in Venice, fantastic cocktails and mocktails, Local Beer, Coffee with national liquer, cappuchino, Moccachino

Deserts:

Gelato, Strawberry tart, Almond Cake, Lemon Cake

Being a vegetarian – we never felt out of place in Italy as the options were numerous across Rome, Vatican City, Florence, Pisa or Venice. Though Venice is more famous for its sea food, you will still be able to get your vegetarian food in a local restaurant – unless ofcourse the laziness in you moves you towards a McDonalds or chain restaurant.

Our draft itenary (which was executed successfully) was as below:

Day 1: Land in Rome at night

Day 2: Vatican City Museums + Sistine Chapel  + St. Peters Basilica, Trevi Fountain, Colosseum at night (from outside)

Day 3: Old Rome (Colosseum, Forra Romano, Palatine Hills), Pantheon, Piazza di Spagna/ Spanish Steps, Jewish Ghetto, Campo de Fiori, Piazza Navona, other fountains.

Day 4: Travel  Rome-Pisa-Florence-Venice.  Covered Leaning Tower of Pisa in Pisa. In Florence we covered Florence Cathedral (Duomo), Museum de Academia (that houses David), Piazza de Signora and Ponte Vecchio bridge

A Venetian Carnival Mask

Day 5: Venice – Burano Island, Gondola Ride, Calle Varisco (narrowest alley in Venice), vaporetti trips, Rialto bridge, walking around the city

Day 6: Grand Canal Tour in vaporetti, St Marks Basilica, Doge’s Palace, Bridge of Sighs and other famous bridges in Venice, Jewish Ghetto’s, walking around the city

Day 6, we flew back to UK in the evening as well. Though the above looks very hectic, we gave quality time to the sights we chose to visit and see places to absorb the rich culture, history of Italy.

Thanks to a tour book we purchased we in advance, we could read a few things before visiting a place – to appreciate it better. Also various free apps on Apple & Samsung library gave us rich information on Italy’s sight seeing places and related history – which enriched our visit further.

More insights on this trip on the next blog. Till then Ciao!

UK: Leedsify: Garden Gate Pub – Hunslet’s Hidden Gem

Garden Gate 

Pubs are of two kinds –the historic ones, which have survived over the last few years / centuries or the modern pubs – typically a part of a large chain of Pubs like “Shakespeare”, “The Red Lion” etc. Leeds is home to a blend of both historic and modern pubs.

Thanks to our friend, expert & local guide - Guy, he had taken it upon himself to do the Good Samaritan’s job of hand holding us to experience some of the best historic Pubs in Leeds.  In the past 14 months, we have spent many an evenings visiting various pubs in and around Leeds city centre, experiencing the ambience and the choice of local ales and beers. Maybe our unplanned effort to thumbs down the growing prowess of the supermarkets who sell cheap and standard international beers thereby indirectly closing 15-20 pubs a month in the UK.

During these interesting times, one of the last pubs we visited was “Garden Gate” in Hunslet. One cannot easily walk to this pub from the city centre as it`s a tad far. However, it deserves a visit for anyone who likes heritage, ambience and of course a good local Leeds brewery beer.  In addition to this, if you plan to have some vegetarian food on a lazy morning – it`s a must recommend to visit this pub! I and my wife enjoyed the two varieties of Lasagne dished up by the team at Garden Gate for us.

A tiled door mat - just outside the entrance

A choice of local beers

Our local NHS clinic (Doctors clinic) is right behind the Garden Gate and over the numerous visits to the doctor; we had never discovered this hidden gem.  However, the Garden Gate has been standing in the same place for over a 110+ years (became a Pub in 1903, but was earlier a inn since 1833) – unfazed and observing Leeds transform from a city of mills and hub of England's industrial revolution to a modern city with designer shopping malls and modern world industries. Over the last century, it has changed many a owners and latest owner is the Leeds Brewery – which helps provide a rich choice of ales and beers like Leeds Pale Ale, Leeds Best, and Midnight Bell in addition to other international beers.

  

As you walk into this pub to grab your pale ale and meal, it is not unusual to notice the finesse of architectural marvel on the outside. Even for a novice in English history like me, this pub’s appearance will compare to that of the Victorian era. Many of such establishments – a marvel of their times are today being demolished or converted to modern architecture with glazed glasses. Thankfully, the efforts of a few good spirited souls in the past few years have now given this pub a Grade II English heritage building listing, in recognition of its architectural value and rarity. The upgrade is recent and only a handful of pubs in the whole of UK hold this status.

If you had a chance to get your eyes off the exteriors of this pub, the interiors will definitely capture your imagination and over awe you with their brilliance. The cosy glass panelled rooms, glazed tiling, mosaic floors, ornate mahogany fitments, long corridors leading to various rooms and the curved ceramic bar counter (where they keep the beer tap and drinks) will leave you spell bound.  

Ceramic tiles on walls

Long corridors leading to rooms

Classic Stained glass painting

Classic flooring and walls

Guy had especially nudged us to have a closer look at the curved ceramic bar counter. Upon retrospective research now, I discovered that the English Heritage specifically mention ‘the curved ceramic bar counter, which is one of only 14 ceramic bar counters surviving nationally’ and remark of the overall building that ‘the level of intactness throughout is unusually high, and nationally very rare’.

The curved ceramic bar counter

There are multiple rooms in the pubs and I positively dread how it would have been to be inside one of the rooms of the pub on a cold winter evening in the early 1940’s, discussing about the Second World War and local affairs over a pint of locally brewed beer or ale, by the fireplace. I am sure the community would have been more close knit than any modern day facebook / twitter communities that we all have succumbed into?

 Under the able leadership and supply of some truly good local ales and beers, I hope Leeds Brewery could continue the legacy of Hunslet’s Hidden Gem – “Garden Gate” for another 100 years (in addition to the 110 years it has already survived - since 1903).

All it needs is a few heritage pub aficionados like Guy, me and you to keep the flag flying high for the likes of “Garden Gate”! Trust me, a pint of beer in the company of friends or family in a pub tastes better than off the freezer and in front of your Television!

Enjoy your beer in a pub than at home!